Coava Come Home

Coava Roastery and Brew Bar

1300 SE Grand Ave.

Portland, OR 97214

7am-5pm everyday

Coava Coffee are Matt Higgins and Keith Gehrke, two coffee roasters who had the audacity to take a look at the Portland coffee scene and believe they had something more to offer.

Roasting for a little over a couple years now, Coava has made an impression with all coffee geeks in Portland. You can find their beans at the Red E on Killingsworth, Crema Coffee + Bakery, and occasionally Billy has them on rotation at BARISTA and BARISTA II. (I don't know if BARISTA's second location at 1725 NE Alberta is officially called "BARISTA II" but that's what I call it.)

But now Coava has a place to call home. Well, they have a kiosk to call home.

Located inside Bamboo Revolution's materials showroom at 1300 SE Grand, Coava has an incredibly beautiful space where they are now serving incredibly crafted coffee.

Coava will serve you a coffee ($2), espresso ($2), macchiato ($2.50), cappuccino ($3) or a latte ($3.5). As of now, there is no flavoring at Coava and the choice of sizes is not your own. The coffees, americanos and lattes come in 10 oz cups, while the other drinks come in their traditional sizes.

In a city where "coffeehouses" have slowly evolved into "coffeelabs," Coava is just another example.

Taking the time to learn as much as possible about the environment, the people and the process behind growing the beans is the first step. They also have a temperature-controlled green room for storing green beans on site before roasting.

But the beans are only half the story. Coava makes sure that each piece of equipment put in play is well-tuned and efficient. Producing coffee only via pour over, Coava knew they would be going through many paper coffee filters. So instead they opted to design a durable and reusable filter with wider holes that allow for more oil molecules to sneak through and add to the flavor complexity of the coffee.

Right now the seating options at Coava are limited to the reuse of Bamboo Revolutions' makeshift tables with stools, but soon more seating will be available.

Coava is also featuring Crema baked goods including scones, muffins, croissants and their new nut, seed and fruit granola bar.

Crema Bakery & Cafe

With friends in from Brooklyn the pressure was on to show off as many good coffeehouses in Portland as possible. Duly impressed by the variations and quality goods that came from many of the houses in the city, Crema was the creme de la creme.

It probably helped that it was mid-morning and we were starving. Walking up to stare at the pastries behind the glass and then turning around to walk back to the end of the line was torturous. Often I find myself making a pastry choice and changing my mind around three times before I finally get to the register.

I love the A.M. buns with their true and direct orange flavor nestled among the crunchy-sugary flakes of swirled pastry. The breads are good, the muffins are a little dry, but good. The only item I haven't had too much of is the bread pudding. They have a rotating selection of flavors and it always looks moist enough to go swimming in. (If swimming in bread pudding is a fantasy of yours.) But I've promised myself to break out of my routine and I'll give the bread pudding a go next time.

I'll reserve any long-winded comments about the actual coffee. They serve Stumptown (yawn), just like most coffeehouses and they don't quite pull it off as well as Albina Press. It's great, but not reach-for-the-stars great.

The bakery in the back of the coffeehouse is almost always abuzz with what seems like dozens of busy bakers coated in flour and bringing pan after pan of warm pastries out to torture the line-waiters.

Possibly the best part of Crema, next to the baked goods, is the art. I think they consistently show high quality work without falling into the trite and faddish forms of coffeehouse art that sometimes kills the mood at other places. The art can be audatious and smug but it is always quality work. And looking at great art helps, as I may have mentioned before, waiting in that line is torture.